Enzymatic Synthesis of Bioactive Compounds with High Potential for Cosmeceutical Application

Author: mycolabadmin
2016-06-08
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Summary

This research reviews how enzymes can be used to create natural ingredients for cosmetics and skin care products. Instead of harsh chemical processes, enzymes provide a gentle, environmentally-friendly way to modify natural compounds to make them more effective for skin care. The modified compounds show improved properties like better stability, absorption into skin, and enhanced beneficial effects. Impacts on everyday life: – Access to safer, more natural cosmetic and skin care products – Reduced environmental impact from cosmetic ingredient manufacturing – More effective anti-aging and skin-protecting ingredients – Better options for sensitive skin due to gentler, natural ingredients – Increased sustainability in the cosmetics industry

Background

Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products containing biologically active ingredients that offer pharmaceutical therapeutic benefits. These active ingredients can be extracted from natural sources or obtained biotechnologically through fermentation, cell cultures, or enzymatic synthesis. The cosmeceutical industry has grown significantly, with Japan, USA, and EU being the biggest markets. There is increasing demand for natural compounds over synthetic ones, though regulation and toxicological testing remain important considerations.

Objective

This review aims to provide an overview of enzymatic modifications currently performed for synthesizing products with attractive properties for the cosmeceutical industry. The focus is on documenting enzymatic modifications that result in ingredients with properties such as anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, skin-whitening, and photoprotective effects.

Results

The review documents successful enzymatic synthesis of numerous bioactive compounds including: α-hydroxy acid derivatives, kojic acid derivatives, lipoic acid derivatives, hydroquinone derivatives, vitamin derivatives (vitamins C, E, A), flavonoid derivatives, hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives, galloyl derivatives and others. The modified compounds generally showed improved properties like increased stability, solubility, skin penetration and enhanced biological activities compared to parent compounds.

Conclusion

A wide variety of compounds with potential cosmeceutical applications can be obtained through enzymatic processes. The use of various enzymes allows modification of target compounds under mild conditions while maintaining biological activity and avoiding by-product formation. These advantages align with increasing demand for natural cosmetics and eco-friendly production methods to replace current chemical processes.

Published in:Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology,
Study Type:Review,
Source: 10.1007/s00253-016-7647-9